this happened at Cyril Renaud’s new eatery Bar Breton on Broadway.
Cyril’s Fleur de Sel was a favourite of mine for as many years as I’ve been around town, and I was quite sad to see it go... so I was eager to try the new place.
—less elegant, less detailed, less intricacy of preparation—same excellent standard.
emphasis on Galettes, ours was a deelish concoction of smoked salmon with leek and a horseradish sour-cream that was almost Bavarian. After which my pork belly was excellent, nicely rounded with wildish mushrooms and their broth—but which demanded that I abandon the mustard that I’d demanded to go with my frites which I’d requested instead of purée. Steve said that his roasted half-chicken could not have been done better, and the succesful execution of a simple concept was quite rewarding. A lemon and sugar crèpe shared for dessert was beautifully balanced and showed all the right moves.
the wine was astonishingly delicious, and cost less than $30 on the wine list.
2007 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet.
just perfect, that’s all. Body, fruit, acid—a nice bit of mineral. Succulent and savoury.
a few nice things like that on Cyril’s list, along with some quirky negoce burgs...